This is a page of information and tips
dedicated to the MG Midget, specifically my 1972 MG Midget, but with info
pertaining to most of the Midget line produced by British Leyland. There
are articles here as well as a journal of the things I have done/am doing
with the car.
-Hell yeah, the clutch is fixed. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to get a new slave cylinder at some point, but for now it works, so I'm happy. The dust boot on it is in tough shape, which in turn let water into the bore. So I polished off the pitting, and it works acceptably for now. Since I got the Midget back out, I've put 150 miles on it without any problems, so I'm starting to regain some of my trust for this car. I'd like to take it for a road trip sometime, but I think new tires are in order before that happens. I'm getting concerned about the fact that the engine is designed for leaded gas, which naturally I'm not running in it, but then again, I'm usually just cruising around with my girlfriend driving easy, so hopefully exhaust valve recession will be at a minimum. I'm going to start running lead substitute additive in the fuel from now on as well.
-The clutch has gotten worse, so I'm going to tear into
that this weekend. I'll check out the slave cylinder and order a new flexible
pipe from Victoria British. I think I'll flush the fluid after I get it
all back together as well (you almost have to to bleed the damn thing).
I do have one other concern. When you get going at a pretty good clip (ie 60 mph) in 4th, the gearbox gradually starts to whine and by 65 its pretty apparent. It's always done that, but I wonder if I have a bearing going south or something. The oil level is right on the money, and always has been, but I suspect that someone put 80W-90 gear oil in the trans, rather than the 20W-50 engine oil it requires.
-The pictures of the car are posted down further on this page. Enjoy. Email me questions.
- I've been driving the Midget every weekend I am home. A couple of things have come up, but not much. The old battery was shit, so I got another one for it, and the clutch has been acting a little funny. Sometimes after you push it it fails to reengage when you let go. I think the flexible section of the clutch line is separated, acting as a one-way valve (like brakes sometimes do). I'll deal with it later. It only does it once in awhile. Otherwise, it is running top notch.
- Well, I got the MG out again. It had been sitting for
a year or so under cover from when I last had time to work on it, but the
time has come to get it out again. Last time I finally got rid of the worn
out SU carbs on it and replaced them with a Weber DGV manual choke I got
off of ebay ($63.00, oh yeah baby), but never really got to test it as
I had to leave for the summer soon after that. After checking the fluids
and tire pressures, installing the battery, and cleaning the points on
the SU fuel pump, she fired right up. Beautiful sounding engine. I have
to say, something about little sports cars like this one just does it for
me. I took it for a little spin. I love having the Weber on there. Until
now, the worn out throttle shafts on the SUs had been a source of continuous
tuning problems. The engine just roars up through its rev range with the
Weber feeding it, and as I row through the 4 gears, approaching 75 mph,
I have a hard time keeping a smile off my face.
Why an MG?
These will be filled in as I perform them on my car.
Paint Resoration: How to revitalize chalky paint.
Clutch Actuator Overhaul and Bleed:
Change Your Trans Oil:
Front End Lubrication:
Don't mind the junk in the yard, we're
in the process of moving some things around.
That's my VW Rabbit in the background of the 1st pic.
Lil' Greenee's Page
:Wonderful site about a 1973 RWA Midget Resto.
End Lubrication and Service
:Page about proper front end service.
Phillips, Stib Inc.
Disclaimer: This site is not endorsed by MG, nor is it approved. All content
is the opinion of the owner.